Coyoacan, one of Mexico City’s 16 “delegaciones” (boroughs), is popular on weekends due to its stunning architecture, plazas, and small streets. You can spend days touring the many museums, cafés, restaurants, stores, and boutiques. The Frida Kahlo Museum in Coyoacan is quite popular, but after seeing the “Blue House”, you should spend at least another day exploring the neighborhood. Follow these suggestions to maximize your stay in this intriguing neighborhood.
Take a Glimpse Into Frida Kahlo’s Private Life
The perfect site to experience Frida Kahlo’s private life is her birthplace, where she lived for years and died. Some of her work is here, but the primary draw is her home of art. Most of her folk and prehispanic art, gathered by her husband, Diego Rivera, is on exhibit here. This museum is one of Mexico City’s most popular, so reserve tickets online to schedule a time and avoid the huge lines.
Visit the Local Plazas
Coyoacan’s plazas, Plaza Hidalgo and Jardin Centenario, are its social hub. A statue of Miguel Hidalgo, the “Father of Mexican Independence,” and a 19th-century bandstand given by President Porfirio Diaz are on Plaza Hidalgo. On the weekends, this area becomes overrun with street sellers and performers. The more verdant and shadier Jardin Centenario is a more tranquil alternative. At its heart is a famous fountain depicting two playful coyotes, a reference to the meaning of the city’s name, Coyoacan, which translates to “place of coyotes.” Before continuing your sightseeing tour, take a break on one of the benches.
Marvel at the San Juan Bautista Basilica
Coyoacan’s rich history is reflected in the San Juan Bautista church, which dates back to the 16th century. Under one of the monastery’s cloisters are the remnants of a Calmecac (a school for the children of Aztec lords), construction of which began in 1527. The church has an austere Herrerian exterior with clear geometric lines and minimal adornment. The four-story bell tower was constructed in the 18th century. The door’s Latin inscription reads, “There is nothing else here but the house of God and the gate of heaven.” The early 20th-century baroque interior contains red cedar altars with gold leaf. Make sure to catch Juan de Fabregat’s paintings of the Immaculate Conception of Mary in the crypt.
Walk in Trotsky’s Footsteps
In 1937, Mexico granted political shelter to Leon Trotsky and his wife, Natalia Sedova. They lived in Frida Kahlo’s family house for two years. Trotsky bought a new residence a few streets away after a falling out with the painters and lived there until his 1940 death. Unfortunately, the security measures taken to safeguard Trotsky at his home—including the high walls, bars covering the windows, four towers, and bulletproof doors—were not enough to save his life. The museum dedicated to Leon Trotsky houses his personal effects and displays photos from his time as a revolutionary and with his family. Explore the halls he frequented and gain insight into his daily routine. Trotsky’s ashes have been placed beneath a monumental stone bearing the hammer and sickle in the backyard garden.
Visit the Viveros de Coyoacan Nature Reserve
Nearly 100 acres in size, Viveros de Coyoacan is a park and tree nursery that serves as a source of seedlings for parks and reforestation projects in and around Mexico City. Pine, oak, cedar, sweetgum, jacaranda, privet, grevillea, apple, quince, pear, and hawthorn are tree species. Visitors and locals stroll, run, practice martial arts, do yoga, and meditate in the open space. Cultural activities are also occasionally held in the park.
Eat Something Delicious
Street food to upscale dining awaits you in Coyoacan. If you’re looking for a sit-down lunch, choose Corazon de Maguey or the more expensive Los Danzantes on opposing sides of the plaza, owned by the same people. The market’s gorditas and tostadas are good for touring. Both establishments include top-notch mezcals and mixed drinks. Amatista Tostadas has the greatest tostadas you’ve ever tasted, and the toppings range from meat and fish to vegetarian options, so there’s something for everyone. Alternatively, the iconic Mexican Fonda La Talavera offers a fixed-price lunch where you can choose between pozole, enchiladas, and other dishes.
Conclusion
Lovely Coyoacan. In that respect, it’s like the beloved Mexican towns of Izamal and Valladolid. Weekends tend to be busier and more touristy, so try to visit during the week if you can. Just enjoy yourself!